Turkey as we experienced it – notes on Sky-Link’s ‘Taste of Turkey’ tour, May 2001

Turkey is indeed a ‘crucible’ – historically, culturally, in geography, in religious terms, and now politically and militarily. Straddling Europe and Asia (Asia Minor of Biblical times) this is a country seeking to operate as a modern, secular state, in a region and from a culture that is dominantly Muslim.

It is the actual presence of an ancient lineage that is so compelling. Turkey is a treasure-trove of relics of a complex and intriguing past. Ancient cities abound: some of them being restored to something approaching their former glory. More and more complex population centres, with city built upon city (destroyed by earthquake, invasion or sheer vandalism) are being discovered, and systematically restored. Troas (Troy) may be the best known example.

The tangible evidence of civilisations dating from C.13th BC (in cuneiform record, and through stone, bone, earthenware, copper, iron and other remnants) brings history alive in a way that even the best books and films cannot do. It is a very special experience to sit in gargantuan open-air theatres with near-perfect acoustics; to walk along streets of the agora or outdoor market places; to travel the Old Silk Route and spend time in an impressive caravanserai; to look in astonishment along perfectly true 80 metre long walls constructed of massive granite blocks; and to stand in awe in majestic libraries that have been buried for centuries, but which were once the heart of major cities.

The experience of Gallipoli – the enormity of the folly of invading impenetrable beach dunes; the eerie witness of Lone Pine Sanctuary to the sense of pride in serving one’s nation; and the memorials to the bravery and selflessness of thousands of Turks and Anzacs – these warrant a separate account.

We saw with our own eyes (and sometimes felt with our own bodies) examples of human progress from Palaeolithic, Neolithic, calcheolithic and early bronze ages, through the later bronze and intermediate times, to the Assyrian and iron ages. Coins from the 7thC BC are thought to have been the world’s first monetary system, originating in Lydia, a state of ancient Anatolia.

We were able to ‘put our feet in the sandals’ of the Hatti, the Hittites, the Egyptians, Phyrgians, and the Romans and the Greeks, walking along the roadways of the Aeolian, Ionian, Lydian, Persian, Ottoman and Seljuk/ Turkish empires. It was a bonus to visit the Greek Island of Rhodes, marvelling at the 4th C fortress city built by the Knights of St John, the huge theatre, and the Temple of Dionysus. Efforts are underway to have the Colossus yet again bestride the habour of Rhodes!

The amazing city known sequentially as Byzantium, then Constantinople and now Istanbul was our host for long enough for us to come to appreciate some of the intricacies of being at the apex of European and Asian traditions and influences.

What an array of famous sights – the Hippodrome; the astounding Blue Mosque, Sancta Sophia (The Church of Divine Wisdom), built as a Christian church, then converted to a mosque and now a museum to all faiths; the fascinating complex known as Topkapi Palace; breath-takingly opulent Dohmabace Palace; the astonishing Underground Cistern; the visual delights of the Grand Bazaar and the complex odours of the Egyptian (Spice) Market.

These are but the better known of literally dozens of places of special historic, religious, social, political or cultural significance. We were fortunate to ‘stumble upon’ many lovely chapels and mosques, and to see the small but vibrant Jewish quarters of Istanbul.

That Istanbul is home to 13 million people was a surprise to us. Despite the teeming masses, this is not an overwhelming city, in the sense of Rome, Hong Kong or even London. Certainly, there is none of the manifest homelessness of those cities, and relatively little overt begging. [The touting for trade is another matter entirely!] The fact that the city is really four inter-related entities (Asian Istanbul; European Istanbul; Old City and New City) helps to make it seem less daunting.

The Seven Churches of which John writes in Revelation, and the missionary journeys of St Paul and other apostles suddenly came alive for us in palpable ways. We spent time in or around five of the seven areas – the astounding district of Ephesus, (the subject of Paul’s letter to the Ephesians) with its three separate cities and evidence of the of St John the Apostle and Mary the mother of Jesus; Smyrna (now called Izmir); Pergamum (now Bergama); Sardis (now best known for its synagogue); and Side, which is probably the old Philadelphia. (Thyatira and Laodicea are thought to have disappeared entirely, although there is excavation work planned.)

It was indeed a spiritual feeling to walk on the floor, touch the walls and admire the domed ceilings of the first chapels ever set aside specifically for Christian worship at what is now called Konya – in Biblical times Iconium, visited several times by Paul and Barnabas. We also visited areas represented in Paul’s letter to the Colossians and possibly (depending on whose scholarship you favour) the Galatians. Miletus and Didyma gave us other examples of the world known to Paul and the Apostles.

Turning to the modern Turkey, we were particularly impressed how enthusiastically Turkish authorities/ builders and developers have embraced solar technology. Solar panels literally festoon all multi-storey buildings, and are a feature of most single-storey dwellings, through all of the country that we saw. It makes Australia seem positively backward.

At the same time, the number of incomplete, unoccupied apartments around Turkey is alarming. We were told this is both a direct indicator of Turkey’s economic problems, manifest in its hyperinflation (200% over the last three years) and the result of ‘building scams’ devised by dishonest bank and credit society officials. Housing is frighteningly expensive (relative to average earnings) and only a small minority can afford to purchase. In the major cities, flats and units predominate. A house in our sense of the term is a rarity.

We loved the friendliness of Turkish people and their ability to laugh at themselves. Traders rip you off with firm handshakes, warm offers of hospitality and the most delightful smiles. Also noteworthy were the courtesy of drivers; the quality of the road system; the ubiquity of fuel outlets (service stations genuinely offer full service, including washing and cleaning tourist buses while they are refuelled); and a salutary police presence on the roads, sufficient to reduce Australia’s road toll to zero. The roads were not nearly as busy as we had envisaged: presumably this is a reflection of the sorry state of the Turkish economy and the price of vehicles (relative to average wages about three times more expensive than in Australia) and fuel (up to $A3.20 a litre).

The ‘father of the republic’, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, has obviously had an influence far beyond anything we in Australia have ever experienced from a single leader, or even a social movement. In ways that we are still discovering, Ataturk somehow galvanised a sense of national identity and purpose out of the wreckage of the Ottoman Empire. There is a long way to go in achieving mature nationhood, but the achievement is substantial and very impressive.

The geographic, climatic, cultural and social differences in Turkey are substantial. We glimpsed only a few aspects of this diversity. We do not know whether the differences amount to divergence. Islam may well be the binding link – 99% of the population is said to be Muslim – but we wonder whether it is also a bond. Yet the omnipresence of Islam is cause for reflection on what we miss in our pluralist society. Perhaps Islam’s influence, represented in the penetrating calls to prayer, minarets and veils is also reflected in the general sociability and impeccable public behaviour of Turkish people – we found no evidence of drunkeness or drug abuse, and graffiti and other anti-social behaviour was rare.

There are major political and social challenges.

Twenty percent of the adult population of Turkey is unemployed.

There is hyper-inflation (80% pa for two years, upwards of 100% in the past few months.)

Environmental degradation is of massive proportions. The farmers in our party thought land clearance, soil loss and stream pollution had gone too far to recover. There is, however, a substantial national tree-planting effort underway. Eucalypts are growing in favour.

The ‘flight to the cities’ is putting unbearable pressure on infrastructure (physical and social). Istanbul’s population has grown by 32% in the last five years.

The privatisation of public assets is proceeding apace, through the demands of the IMF/ World Bank as much as through ‘natural globalisation’.

Reconciliation/ rapprochement with Kurdish and Armenian minorities is of pressing importance. Turkey appears to be successfully multi-cultural in many respects, but has definitely not come to terms with these two groups who lay claim to being its ‘indigenous minorities’.

Resettlement/ rehousing of the thousands of people still affected by the 1999 earthquakes must rank as an ongoing national priority.

The ‘militarisation’ of Turkey should be of international concern. The evident growth of a military state is alarming.

Unresolved tensions between Greece and Turkey must contribute to the overall sense of instability. The fact that NATO, the USA and Russia all have manifest ‘designs’ on Turkish hegemony adds to the tension.

Turkey’s physical straddling of East and West makes it difficult for the nation to withstand ‘enticements’ to become committed to conflicts that are not of its own making or related to its own ambitions.

Now for some random observations from a tourist point of view.

[As with all our comments, these observations relate to western and south-western Turkey: the story may be very different in the eastern sector.]

We could have done without so much of the ‘smoke of history’! Turks must be the life-blood of the cigarette companies.

Contrary to popular opinion, tea (especially Apple tea) rather than coffee is the national drink of Turkey. “Nescafe” is regarded as a special treat! (But long live ‘real’ – unsweetened – Turkish coffee, says David.)

The potent alcoholic drink Raki, produced and controlled under State monopoly, is no threat to beer (there are two superb brands widely available); and Turkey’s wines are ‘distinctive’ rather than distinguished. Islamic proscriptions seem to have minimal impact on the availability of alcoholic drinks in major hotels, cafes and restaurants. ‘Turkish Viagra’ (pistachio nuts) is an amusing new industry!

Having to drink bottled spring water all the time was a salutary reminder of the quality of our water supply here in Melbourne, which we take for granted.

Turkish bread, its tomatoes and the basic ‘Mediterranean diet’ set new standards in culinary delight. Sadly, figs were in short supply. Oranges and cherries were the dominant fruits.The home-made ‘Turkish Delight’ found in the markets is in a different hemisphere to the sickly-sweet imports available in Australia.

It is almost impossible merely to ‘window shop’ for a Turkish carpet or kilim! Looking with mild interest is enough to set off a chain reaction that seems inevitably to lead to a lighter wallet and a much heavier suitcase.

If you wear leather boots in Turkey, be aware that you will be the subject of almost incessant interest to the hundreds of shoe-shine boys and men whose daily prayer must be that Nike and its competitors are quickly consigned to their own special hell. [These people are persistent: they even offer ten-year guarantees!]

David and Lyn Hall

15 July 2001